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PFW AW20: Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen - Highland Realness

February marked 10 years since Alexander McQueen committed suicide so I feel like the collections around this event have been even more reflective. I actually remember the tragic news being announced. At the time I was not as into fashion as I am now but of course I had heard of the designer. It was more that I used to walk past his home every time I was in London and the next time we went after it happened, there were flowers and police tape up, it was so sad to see and it is something I will never forget.

Last year I watched the McQueen documentary on Netflix and it is actually really interesting; whether you want to find out about the brand of not. One thing that I always think of is that he did not want his brand to continue without him but 10 years later his brand is still going and it is as popular as ever. 

Picture from Vogue


Autumn/Winter 2020

One of the early collections that McQueen created for his eponymous brand was highland inspired and this season Sarah Burton has gone back to the Scottish highlands for inspiration. This is immediately different from McQueens' Highland runway as there are no boobs or nips on show. McQueen was known for a very deep and dark mind and his highland show was inspired by highland rape. At the time it was incredibly controversial but it gave the brand a lot of publicity. Sarah has definitely strayed away from controversy but has used classic highland check.

Picture from Vogue

With a highland theme you would expect a lot of check and this runway did not disappoint. I have to say some of the shapes and the patterns remind me of the Michael Kors runway from this season. Some of the dresses have a similar shape to a blanket being draped around you with a belt around the middle. The dress in the picture above sort of has this vibe and some of the Michael Kors dresses certainly did.

There are classic details that are synomous with a brand and I feel like lace and studs are certainly a big part of the McQueen collections. A lot of the bags are covered in small studs and rivets which add texture but also an edgy to the accessories. This season this detail remains and so does the lace. There are both lace dresses and lace details to coats which have also been present in basically all of the recent runways.

Picture from Vogue

There is only one brand that really hasn't gone mad on the branding over the past couple of seasons and it is Alexander McQueen, you do not look at their runway and see the logo everywhere which is refreshing. Obviously McQueen have their skull motif but we haven't even seen that on the runway, it is much more commercial.

As well as the strong powerful dresses which I am about to talk about, there is also some sharp tailoring in this runway. The suit in the picture above is absolutely incredible. I love the colour block which is created by a large check design over the suit. It is such a strong look and I love the use of check throughout the design.

Picture from Vogue

I feel like there is a classic dress silhouette within McQueen and there has been for a number of years. They have been loving the asymmetric straps with a belted waist and a gathered skirt with a full skirt and an asymmetric hem line again. The one shoulder and big skirt feel a bit like a draped sheet and then you have the bralette side of the top which I think is beautiful. This shape was a key part of the Spring/Summer 2020 runway so I am pleased to see it back this season.

You can sort of see them in the outfit below and you can definitely see them more in the full collection but McQueen did include these long leather boots with a lot of the looks. These boots look almost vinyl like and it is because they are so skin tight. There seems to be a trend this season of skin tight boots or leggings like the Vinyl that features on both the Saint Laurent and Balmain runways. These boots are so sexy and they top off the looks with a touch of fetitsh.

Picture from Vogue

Based on This Runway, What Should You Add to Your A/W Wardrobe?

Highland Check - I love check prints and this check is one of my favourites from the season. The check is slightly bigger and it isn't overly colourful which is my style. I also love how the check print was incorporated into the suit. You had the large check print and the smaller grey check but at no point does it feel like too much.

Touches of Red - This runway remained quite monochrome but there were touches of red throughout that added a small bit of colour. Red is definitely one of the colours of the season but you only want to add a small piece of red to your wardrobe.

Thigh High Leather Boots - The last pair of boots I was obsessed with were the Victoria Beckham thigh high peep toe boots but they have been bested by the boots on this runway. A thigh high pair of leather boots is not something I knew I wanted or needed but looking at this runway, I am sold.


If you want to see more of the Alexander McQueen runway, here is a link to the full collection on Vogue: Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2020 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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